|
Please read before contacting me; if you don’t have the time to waste reading my add, I probably don’t have time to waste trying to sell you a car you don’t actually want. Save both of our valuable time, read the add, look at the pictures, and lastly check your bank account, because the sale will be cash in hand only. No checks, money orders, B.S. or elsewise.
I am posting up my daily driven project car. I call it a project because it still ins’t finished in some senses, while it is an entirely complete, running, driving, reliable car. The vehicle started life as a 1991 325is, and has since been transformed into a "335is". One of the vehicles previous owners swapped an m30b35 into the vehicle from an e34 535, drove the car, at some point developed a coolant leak he believe to be a head gasket, decided he didn’t want to mess with it, and sold it as it sat to the guy who owned the car before me. Once purchased it sat for a long time being believe to have a leaking head gasket until it was finally torn apart to find the head gasket hadn’t been leaking at all, but a crack next to a freeze plug. The engine was then replaced with another m30b35 before being purchased by me. The vehicle is a 5 speed, but the transmission in the car is very difficult to get into third gear, because of a combination of worn synchro’s due to age and mileage, and the very short notchy throw of the UUC Evo short shift kit installed. A replacement transmission can be sourced at most salvage yards for $300 or less, I had planned on replacing it further down the line when I turbocharged the car and would need a more powerful clutch/pressure plate setup and a fresh strong transmission for boatloads more power. The clutch and pressure plate are very strong and the clutch pedal effort is high on this setup, so if you are unaccustomed to driving a stick shift with a performance setup, it may take some getting used to.
Suspension: The vehicle rolls on H&R Race lowering springs matched with Bilstein Sport stuts and shocks at all four corners, on Work CR-Kai 17×8 wheels et0 wrapped in Nexxen N3000 215/40/17 tires which will need replacing soon as I waited too long to break the tires off and flip them around on the wheels to compensate for the uneven camber wear. They work fine for now and I wasn’t planning to replace them until the state inspection expires in 02/12. The outside edges look ragged and are starting to show cords on the two that were in the rear, but that part of the tire no longer wears with them flipped around and the inside edge still has quite a lot of tread life left. The front control arms are recently new with new offset ///M3 control arm bushings.
Powertrain: for those not familiar with the engine swap, the engine is a 3.5 liter inline six that replaces the factory 2.5 liter inline 6, picking up 30 or so horsepower and 65 or so torque, it’s just a larger version of the stock motor basically with way more torque and power across the entire power band. Also it has a timing chain vs. the factory motors timing belt, removing a common maintenance issue. The power steering works, the a/c compressor is in place as are the system components, but I have never sourced/had the hoses made to hook it up. It wouldn’t take too much investment to have a/c if you wanted it for long distance commuting. The intake manifold is not correct for the m30b35 engine, the previous owner had the m30b35 intake manifold drilled and tapped for direct port nitrous injection for his pipe dreams once the car was mobile but lost interest in the project, and I have no interest in a nitrous setup, so I didn’t purchase that from him. It was never used on the car as the car was disassembled the entire time from when he purchased it to when I purchased it from him. It also is still on motronic 1.0 and not motronic 1.3, though the crank position sensor and 1.3 crank pulley with toothed trigger wheel are currently in place. All you would need if you wanted motronic 1.3 is the harness and ecu as it sits right now. Everything would hook straight up. I was going to swap to motronic 1.3, but the performance of the car is excellent, and I decided gains would be negligible after racing it against the only other e30 with an m30 swap I know of in the area and having mine walk away form him steadily. I was planning on installing an m30b35 intake manifold when I put the Metric Mechanic head on that I have for the car, simply for aesthetic satisfaction to easily identify the 3.5 liters of BMW inline 6 under the hood just by looking at the cast number on the intake manifold, but I haven’t gotten to the point of being ready to use the head yet, so it is waiting to be hot tanked and surface prepped and installed. It is a Metric Mechanic m30b35 head that I purchased used from a race shop down in the Houston area. The exhaust on the engine is a one off fab’d up by the previous owner, 2" off the exhaust manifolds back to a resonator, then 2.5" back to the single in dual out muffler, sounds pretty great, but then again it’s difficult to make a BMW inline six sound anything but amazing, especially an m30. The intake is just a 3" or so pipe with a generic cone filter, it serves a purpose, and has a great induction noise on the m30 when you punch it. The car is equipped with a 2.93 limited slip differential, and the car pulls like a torquey freight train with it. When I purchased it there was a puny ridiculously short 4.10 small case open diff installed. the 2.93 gets better gas mileage and is much faster to drive around, 0-60 without 3 gear shifts. Second gear goes up to 75mph, so not using the finnicky 3rd gear isn’t really an issue even if you’re racing people light to light or whatever floats your boat… even for highway driving leaving a light for an on ramp, you pretty much just blast through first and second and drop it in fifth for cruising because you’re up to speed. The other m30 swapped e30 I mentioned racing runs 3.45 diff which is much shorter gearing as well, and got walked away from. I wouldn’t trade this diff in an m30 powered e30 for anything else, it’s perfect.
Exterior: The car is originally Laguna Green Metallic, but has long since lost most of its glossiness and metallic luster. It needs to be repainted. It’s all one color, it looks alright, it could be worse, but if you want to compare it to anything new, it looks terrible. The pictures speak for them selves. It is presentable at the track, auto-x, or a drift event or car meet, but not a Concours cars and coffee car. All in all it will be appreciated and presentable, even fashionable/trendy to many modern import car enthusiasts, but your wife/girlfriend won’t be amused. The rear bumper has been replaced with a very dark blue one but isn’t really noticeable, it just looks black almost. I have a BMP Desgins RS1 body kit as well that is currently painted Bronzitbeige Metallic, a champagne brozne/tan gold color. It consist of the side skirts and front and rear bumpers. The car also has aftermarket eyebrows over the US ellipsoid headlights, and the factory IS trunk lip spoiler. The only physically damaged body panel if the front right fender, it has damage visible in photos.
Interior: Power windows and sunroof all work, black leather sports seats, with a replacement black vinyl sport seat for the drivers seat that comes extra with the car. the leather doesn’t last in harsh climates and the vinyl looks the exact same only it’s more comfortable and lasts forever. Vinyl interiors e30′s (or "leatherette as I believe they are optioned in e30 world") looks brand new inside 30 years later, leather seats look 30 years old 1 year after you refinish them. I was just going to move to vinyl sports seat for the durability and comfort. The steering wheel is an M-Tech 1 wheel, 6/10 condition or so, comes with a new badge not installed yet. Since the car is a 91, it was originally an airbag steering wheel. Since I have the much better looking earlier m-tech 1 wheel on it, it doesn’t sit perfectly flush. There is a metal collar bushing that needs to be replaced with one that is slightly elongated so that the steering wheel sits perfectly flush on the column instead of having 1mm or so of free play. the shifter is an aluminum and carbon UUC knob with the UUC Evo ultimate short shift kit installed, the clear coat on the carbon fiber is coming off, sadly this product didn’t hold up very well in Texas heat. It is wrapped in a black suede boot with M-tech 3 color stitching. The dash is almost entirely perfect and crack free, the only imperfection is a small half inch tear in the skin of the dash inside the little tray area above the glove box on the passenger side. I currently don’t have a glove box installed, just the black plastic ecu cover for extra leg room for me and my friends, we are all fairly tall. The odometer works and shows 114k on the chassis. There is a pioneer head unit installed, and the car is wired for subs with all new wires run for all the speakers, but just stock speakers installed. Windows are tinted 35-40% probably, not super dark but noticeable for sure.
Full images can be found here, and I can add images needed upon request, though these should suffice:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bmw_bum/
The asking price is $4500 or best offer for just the car and spare parts I am selling with it, not including the used Metric Mechanic head I have, or the BMP Designs RS1 body kit, or I will sell all of it together for $5000 even. Else wise I will be selling the Metric head and BMP body kit separately. You can text any time to contact me, Matt, at (972)4six5-0six7two or call and leave a voicemail if I don’t answer if you prefer not to text, texting will be the most efficient means to reach me though.
|
