This was posted on SCCA Forums at 02-15-2012 9:44 PM
As much as this pains me to even write this, I’m doing it to see if there is any interest in my evo. If there is, I’m willing to part with my evo that I’ve owned the past 6 years. If not, I’ll keep it another year and enjoy it some more. The only reason I’m even considering selling it, is to go with a LSX swapped FD or a Supra TT.
As stated previously, I’ve owned this car for 6 years coming this February. I bought it bone stock (other than an aftermarket alarm). It literally has been the most reliable car I’ve owned. Sure, it’s had minor things go wrong, but it’s definitely surprised me on how stout of a car it really is!
I’ve been METICULOUS with maintaining and taking care of this car. Waxing it multiple times a month is not uncommon. Fluids were always changed on or ahead of schedule.
It currently has 99,XXX miles on it. Most of which are highway miles that I’ve put on. Just to give you an idea, I had over 70,000 miles on the original STOCK clutch when it started to slip. It has been babied for most of it’s life. It finally started to let loose when I autox’d it later on during ownership.
Pictures:
2003 Lancer Evolution VIII GSR
Tarmac Black
2.0L 4G63
Clean title – In hand
Located in Sioux Falls, SD
No accidents
Power:
-Buschur Racing Intake/Amsoil Filter
-Buschur Racing 3″ Turboback Exhaust/test pipe
-Buschur Racing “Street” FMIC (3.5″ Garrett core)
-Buschur Racing LICP
-Revolver Cams 262/264 (11.4mm lift/11.5mm lift)
-BC Springs/Titanium Retainers
-Spoolin’ Up COP ignition
-MAP Headstuds
-MAP ported/coated exhaust manifold
-MAP coated intake manifold (not ported)
-Megan 02 housing(MAP high temp coated)
-IX turbo
-FIC 950cc injectors
-Walbro fuel pump
-Forge MBC
-Synapse Synchronic Diverter Valve
-Zeitronix Wideband/ZT2 gauge (red backlight)
-ACT clutch/prolite flywheel
-Road tune by Joey at Excessive Autosports here in SF, SD (E85/24psi peak – Very conservative and reliable) Sitting just under 400whp as it stands.
Suspension:
-AST 4100 Coilovers with Vorshlag front camber plates (just purchased and used this spring – current. Have put less than 5,000miles on them.) 10kg front/11kg rear – $2,500 new
-Robispec adjustable rear anti sway bar
-Whiteline Roll Center kit
Brakes:
-Rotorpros slotted rotors
-Racing Brake ET500 pads (I have a set of street pads laying around too)
-Technafit Stainless Brake lines
-Motul RBF600
Wheels/Tires:
-BS IX MR wheels with Hankook Winter Ipike 409′s (225/45/17) – TONS of tread left
-Team Dynamics “FQ400″ wheels (17×9 +27 Just purchased and used this spring to current. Mint!) with Hankook RS-3 (255/40/17). I do have a 5th, MINT/NEVER used wheel too. No tire mounted on it.
Interior/Exterior/Misc:
-Vortex Generator
-Rexspeed Type – C carbon fiber trunk lip
-Blacked out head lights
-IX tail lights
-Tinted windows (35% sides, 20% rear)
-Optima Red Top battery replaced my original battery within the past year
-Clifford alarm/keyless entry
-AMS Delrin shift knob
-ARC Titanium exhaust heat shield
-Stewart Warner Oil Temp and Boost gauges
-Dual gauge holder
-Binary Seat lowering bracket (driver’s side)
-Perrin short shifter
-Schroth Rallye 4 harness
-Blox front Transmission mount
-Buschur Racing shifter base and underhood transmission linkage bushings
-Mil-spec Throttle body shaft seals replaced
-EGR block off/delete
I have a TON of stock/OEM parts laying around. So if you don’t like a mod or multiple mods that I have currently, I can put most anything back on. Here’s a list off the top of my head:
OEM ignition
OEM Seat mounts for drivers side seat
OEM Shifter and Knob
OEM Wing
OEM FMIC
OEM LICP
OEM VIII and IX spark plug covers
OEM VIII turbo 9.8cm hotside/02/lines/jpipe
OEM shocks/strutfs
OEM exhaust
OEM VIII tails that were blacked out
OEM bumper supports (front/rear)
OEM Cams (two sets)
OEM Intake
OEM VIII Diverter Valve
OEM IX MR floormats (extras for the front)
There is probably more…
Exterior:
The paint is in excellent condition for it’s age. I’ve tried to take care of this car the best that I can. The front bumper and hood have a fair amount of small chips. There are two very minor dings on each side that could be easily removed. Other than that, the paint and body are in excellent condition for a 2003 and no rust on the body panels! The underside has very little rust compared to some of the 03-06 evo’s I’ve witnessed. When I have driven it in the winter, I washed it at least one-two times a week and it definitely shows.
Interior:
Very good condition. The drivers seat has normal wear and tear. Never been smoked in.
The Good:
Pulls HARD for only running 24psi!
This car is damn reliable. The only things I’ve had go wrong was a burnt up battery cable due to my own error, timing tensioner failed (luckily no damage) and the stock clutch finally let go. Other than that it’s been a VERY dependable car!
Set up well for autox, yet still rides very well on the street with the AST coilovers. I love these coilovers and I’ve been through FIVE different suspension setups! Plenty of people on this forum, both East and West river, can vouch for how this car performs. :corn:
The exterior still looks great for it being a 2003. I get compliments all the time on the paint, asking if it’s been repainted, etc. It’s the original paint!
Recent maintenance:
-New OEM Timing belt
-New OEM Tensioner
-New OEM Tensioner pulley
-New OEM Headgasket for the Revolver cam swap I did recently
-Just changed the TC and Rear Diff fluid with Diaqueen (TC, Tranny and Diff fluid were changed YEARLY with Diaqueen)
-Fresh Mobil 1 Oil change (Changed every 2500-3000 miles)
-Starts up on the 1st try on E85, even in the sub freezing weather!
The not so good:
-2nd gear has ALWAYS been notchy/crunchy since I bought it. I’ve just lived with it and after reading on here for years, it seems like it’s a common thing. I was going to have the transmission looked at if I ever would have to replace the clutch again. It shifts fine, just notchy in that gear.
-Can’t adjust negative camber in the right rear. The bolt is seized probably due to the heat of the exhaust. It’s at 0 degrees in that corner and I’ve lived with it.
-Minor oil leak. I’m assuming it’s the valve cover gasket, which I’ll take a look at soon!
I’m looking for $18,999 for EVERYTHING listed. Both sets of wheels/tires, all the OEM spare parts, all the mods, everything! Going down the list of mods, there is a good $10,000+++ of mods with this car. I feel with the condition of this car is in, I can ask a premium. I don’t NEED to sell this car and am not going to let it go for a steal. I absolutely love this car and I’m not in ANY hurry to get rid of it. If you don’t like my price, please move on as I’m not budging. If I do, I’ll update the price in the future.
If the potential buyer would like some parts put back to stock, we can negotiate the price down from there!
The only cars/bikes I’m looking at for a trade would be:
93-98 Toyota Supra TT 6 speed
93-95 FD RX7 (swapped LSx)
Yamaha R6 (2006 and newer) + cash
An example of price flexibility:
I’d take [color=#40FF00]$15,999[/color] for the evo with the stock suspension and BBS wheels/Hankook Winter iPikes put on! Everything else would still be included other than the FQ400 wheels/tires and the AST coilovers/Vorshlag camber plates!
I’ve also got 2 Mitsubishi OEM Oil filters that I’d include and I’d do a fresh Mobil 1 oil change before you’d take the car in your hands! I just re-coated the muffler as well!
To see the original post at SCCA Forums follow the link below
http://www.sccaforums.com/forums/forumid/63/threadid/423273/scope/posts
